Cyclocross 101

So you've never done cyclocross...you may never have seen it, either. This section is intended to give you a brief introduction.  There is no other bicycle event which is quite like this and we encourage beginner's to come out and try. Once you try this sport, you'll be hooked. There are many photos here to show you some of the techniques.

Also, See this video for a brief introduction.

The Event 

Cyclocross is incredibly popular in Europe and has taken on a feverish pitch in New England, California, and the Pacific Northwest. The sport is reserved for the Fall and Winter months. This allows road and track cyclists a great alternative for off-season training from the regular road season. The courses are generally closed loop courses in city parks and open fields. Races generally last from about 25-30 minutes for the Beginner divisions up to an hour for the elite and Pro riders. No two Cyclocross courses are the same and the course has required dismounts.  The dismounts are usually over barriers that are about 12 inches to 18 inches in height. There are often 2 or 3 barriers in each set and the riders are required to dismount the bike, hurdle the small barriers, and then remount the bike and continue. Some barriers are natural barriers like logs or other obstacles and others and there is usually at least one set of man-made barriers. The best riders may not always be the fastest riders...they are usually the riders that can get through the barriers swiftly and cleanly. You will be fine if you just want to ride around and lift the bike over these small boards. But if you want to know the trick on how to get over these like a pro, read on!

The Bike

A Cyclocross bike looks somewhat like a road bike with some subtle differences. First, the bottom bracket is designed to be a little higher than a standard road bike. This allows for a little better clearance over obstacles. The tires are varied from one terrain to another but generally are not smooth like a road tire. But they're not as knobby as a mountain bike either. They usually have small knobs in order to allow for better mud clearance, but are smooth enough to fly along grassy terrain. Next, the brakes are different. The brakes are designed more like those found on mountain bikes and allow for better mud clearance than standard road cantilever brakes. Another helpful change for a cross bike is to have the braking system reversed...in other words, set the left brake to the rear tire and the right brake to the front tire. This is not critical, but the hard core guys do this for a reason. This design is helpful since almost everyone mounts and dismount the bike on the left. With the left brake going to the rear tire, it's easier for the rider to brake on the left side (rear tire) during a dismount. Finally, the cables to the rear brake and rear derailer go along the top of the tube instead of the underside. These changes along the top tube allow the rider to carry the bike a bit easier for comfort as well as preserving the cables from unnecessary stress. 

The Dismount

Dismounting the bike can take a little practice. Try this technique at a very slow speed on flat terrain or terrain with a very minimal uphill grade. The technique that works the best is to clip out of your right pedal, swing your right leg back over the saddle while standing on your left peddle. Then bring your right leg through between your left leg and the bike and step forward to the ground on the right foot. Unclip your left foot as you step down with the right and you are ready to run.

Shouldering the Bike

Shouldering the bike is one of two techniques utilized to get your bike with you over a challenging terrain. An uphill section with barriers or even a flat but long section with barriers is ideal for this technique. After completing the dismount, your left hand should still be on the left handlebar and the right hand should now be placed on the underside of the top-tube. Pick up the bike, mainly with the right arm, while maintaining stride and stabilizing it with the left hand. Sling it over your right shoulder so that the top tube rests on our shoulder while you move your right hand around to hold the left handlebar. This allows you to let go of the bike with the left arm now and run swinging the left arm more freely and comfortably during the run. Some people wear two jerseys in order to pad their shoulder a little better or use foam insulation tubing (available from any hardware store) over a small section of their top tube. 

Carrying the Bike

Sometimes it may be easier just to carry the bike rather than sling it over the shoulder. Short flat terrain may be better suited for this technique but it's often a matter of preference. After you have completed the dismount, lift the bike by holding the left side of the handlebars in the left hand and grasping the down-tube in the right. Lift the bike high enough to clear the barrier while maintaining your stride as you hurdle the barriers.

The Barriers

The barriers are usually 12-18 inches in height and often consist of small boards or logs. You can generally expect 2-3 barriers on each set of of obstacles, and maybe 2-4 sets of barriers on each lap of the course. They are usually 10-15 feet apart so you will have a couple of strides between each one. Be sure you have your bike lifted high enough when hurdling these obstacles so that you don't slam your bike into the barrier. Try this in a field at slow speed by dismounting the bike and jumping over some small braches or sticks. Walk through a few times first. Next, try increasing your speed. The main goal of this exercise is getting used to taking a small jump in stride while holding up your bike. 

The Remount

This part can be intimidating at first but can make or break a riders ability to accelerate after the barriers. As soon as you place the bike on the ground, set your hands on the bars  (most riders prefer the hoods) and use your left leg to jump into the air while swinging your right leg over the saddle. Most riders prefer to land on the inside of the right thigh, then slide onto the saddle. Others will land directly on the saddle. This skill is not as hard as it sounds, but it does take a "leap of faith." Once you master this skill, you will be more efficient than those that stutter-step onto the bike.

The Victory Salute

No matter how often you ride and no matter what level you compete, you need to practice raising your fists in the air like you've just won the Tour de France. It is - by far - the most important skill you need to learn. After all, you never know when you might use it!